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How to fix broken binding posts

When shipping decks with a classic transport, if not properly packaged, the binding posts that hold the mechanism in place against the main chassis, break fairly easy

This is the external aspect of a classic transport, in this case a dragon, that has been damaged while in transport. The first thing to suspect is the binding posts. But let’s check it out ….

A quick look inside shows what has happened. Left top and bottom posts are broken due to excessive force being applied by courier.

The transport needs to be removed from the chassis, so we can work on the posts alone.

Once here, we can drill a pass-trough hole in the post, using a 3mm drill.

Once the post has been drilled, you can put it back in place. You may glue the post to the mech., but this is not necessary – and can make things difficult for later disassembly.

ou can then remount the transport, and hold it in place using a 3x40mm screw.

Use a bolt retainer at the end, and make sure you don’t tight it more than necessary.

The result is a great illumination, but because the LED color temperature is greater than that on bulbs, the final color is more blue-ish, and less green-ish than the originals. Also, the 500Ohm resistor in the ABLE / RAMM panel, makes it a little too bright. Probably a 1K or 2K resistor would do better. The same chinese provider, has sets of “warm” white leds, I have ordered some. Also, 5mm LEDs would be a better fit for the keyboard. They have also been ordered. I will update the site when hey are installed.

When the deck was about ready, the auto-azimuth has started to fail. If I tried to auto az. it starts and stops in a tenth of a sec. The double flip-flop, IC512 (4013) responsible for triggering the Az. End signal on Logic board was faulty. I have replaced it and now it is working fine again.

If you have never seen a 1000ZXL in action, this is it. See the machine going trough the ABLE and start recording.